Axel roses...and thorns.
I'm new here, but I've read a few threads and I like the atmosphere...
My question is this, has anyone ever tried a different axel source other than what comes with the car ?
I use the tubes, love the idea. Stock axels JUST fit inside...not much chance of keeping the graphite in place. I know the color shift cars have polished axels similar to FTE's...(so I've been told/seen), But I'm working on another idea...sewing needles.
My second question...terminating the ends. Glass beads? Micro section of tubing? A dab of epoxy? Thoughts?
Really, my goal is to make EVERY wheel an FTE, I don't like being limited to the FTE style. I build lookers that run...full interior, full pan, clearance wheel wells that DON'T exceed the original fender opening, (I tuck them in if possible). I'm finding it more enjoyable as a hobby to build quality rather than gutted bricks...BUT I only have a handful of racers under my belt...and the heavy weights are killing it.
I'm going to apply some of what I've read here beginning with sanding the wheels...(I've also considered setting the camber in slightly as suggested in one of the threads...minimal wheel surface = less friction...but increases need for straightness.
Thanks for any support...
Discussion
Welcome Scorchers!
It's been a while since I've done much tinkering...but needles are an option that I was playing around with. I was having a hard time finding a good size. From what I remember, the hole a HW wheel is around .8mm and I did find some straight pins that are around .7mm...this seemed a little too loose for my liking, but I didn't test them.
Making wheels, making custom chassis, using 2mm ID wheel bearings are all options that I would like to explore further. But, I also like to just find a set of good running wheels and slap them in a car, and race. We run quite a few races on here and I'd rather spend $5.00 on my racecars...not $50.
So, I'm probably going to running more races with simple, wheel-swap style rules...and every now and then (a few times a year, maybe), I'll run all-out, run what you brung (and hope you brung enough) races with limits on only length and weight (and maybe a certain type of cars).
I look forward to seeing what you build! And again, welcome!
Welcome to Redline Derby, glad you found us. You'll find all sorts of creative engineering going on here, just keep digging.
If you scroll through some of the Pro Series event threads, you'll see the work Voxxer Racing has been doing with custom axles, ends, wheels, etc...he's hardcore.
I pretty much just stick with the tube method and existing axles. It's worked for me and otherwise I just don't have much time to dive too deep into finding something more exotic.
Just throw up a post or shoot me a PM if you have any trouble with the web site or need help with anything.
welcome scorch,
hot wheels uses a riveter of sorts to make the axle ends...probably hydrolic...
if you are a machinist you might make a micro flaring tool, centerpunching the wire would really help...[heat may also help making the flare]
i would make it with a removeable spacer so you don't clamp the axles on the tire / wheel contact surfaces...
Winning or looking good ???? That is the essence from reading your post. I go for winning and going fast, but as you stated above, you do not want to exceed outide the fender, so your want to look good. You have to decided what type of racing you want.
FYI the closer the wheels are, the more unstable you car is. Long - wide - low center of gravity.
Weight transfer - removing the interior takes away " high" weight which can be transferred lower on the chassis.
Jon
Voxxer Racing
Welcome, many of the above mentioned techniques have been tried with varying levels of success. Most of the new ideas come down to execution. Many of the same principles that work in Pinewood Derby racing translate here… just on a smaller scale. I know in that form of racing there is a tool called an axle press, which reforms the end and straightens the axle. But with Hot Wheels axles the tolerances are much tighter, and smaller in diameter. The tooling to build this device would be expensive .
http://www.pinewoodpro.com/pinewood-derby-tools.php
Voxxer seems to have a hot set up currently, might check with him. I have tried the tubes and had decent luck, but I’m always open to a new approach. I do enjoy when someone comes along and makes you re-think what you are doing and why. C-10 did that with axle tubes, mini wheel bearings, axle jigs.
2005-2006 FTE axles an wheels have always been a solid and quick way to go fast.
Some of this new engineering/technology may scare off rookie builder and racers. Part of the fun is finding that “good” set of axles/wheels and making them better.
But the great thing about this place is the membership runs the races and sets the rules… So dig in and find a race/rules you can work within and join the fun.