splicing diecast body tip
when splicing or, butting diecast panels i like to file tiny slots [grooves] perpendicular to the splice... this gives the J B WELD/QUICK something extra to adhere to... it works like the J B RIVIT... i started this because i was breaking the J B when filing the cars...
shazam !
Discussion
removing the hood ; because the hood to windshield section is so tender i cut the hood apart with a hacksaw, in this order...
nice.
I spent a lot of time working and sanding cars to have them break right in my hand. I'll have to try the tip!
Adding a bumper to bone shaker or any similar base ;
cut the blackened section [pix] from the base you choose...
allways cut out the base section smaller than needed... cut the bumper and rear floor section too big...
file a beveled edge on the base and bumper so the bumper lays flat and flush with the chosen base... file some lateral J.B. QUICK grooves on the edges of both mating surfaces...
let cure, then saw an axle slot into the J.B. QUICK... i use the rivit hole for a J.B. RIVIT hole...
check for level, then J.B.QUICK it...after curing, do the axles...
this bumper will protect the wheels / axles when racing...
both bases are upside down, stocker has the slot blacked out...
i slant cut the axle slot into the backing plate, pulling the axle away from the bumper so i could run a larger tire...
straight pipes and way 2 fast modd ; NOTE - glue's name changed from no-mess to stik'n seal indoor...
Good tip, Smitty. I imagine adding some "roughness" to anything will help the JB meld better. I've had a few cars in the past where I put some on and didn't do anything extra and after a while the JB just broke free. Particularly true with the plastic chassis, I've found.