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It would be amazing if someone produced custom bearing and cap wheels for Redlines...
So what does the lip on the wheel get you? Just less rubber hitting the road so less friction, etc...?
Less friction equals more speed, next thing will be the best place for the raised tread. That will effect the pressure which is place on the hub. It is all about testing, testing, testing,and more testing!!!
Okay, I think I'm getting this process sorted out...
I'm not sure if it is going to equal speed, but, at least I'm using wheels that normally would gotten tossed
So playing devil's advocate here...being that less plastic hitting the road *should* mean more speed, why don't the skinny wheels do better in racing?
Seems like your whittling down a fat wheel to be a skinny wheel, when those things already exist.
I mean, we've all seen how poor the skinny wheels do so I know the proof is in the pudding already but just wondering why that is?
It's no secret that FTE's are pretty consistently the best way to go for speed...but, about half (if not more) come from the factory with pretty bad case of the wobbles. The whole idea of doing this is to try to use wheels that otherwise would have been just thrown away...and possibly make them even faster than a good factory wheel.
Also if, I can make this work...and make wheels that are as fast as a good set of FTEs, or faster...it will apply to ANY Hot Wheels wheels...and we won't have to shell out the money for FTEs....make sense?
Well, I was able to do some work on the cars for this race last night...and I'm really happy with what I've learned. But are the cars fast enough to enter in this race...well, no, they aren't.
So, I fell back on my tried and true methods and put this '55 together...
And, I'm pretty sure it's got a little speed.
I'll get back to working on the wheels soon. I know what I'll be trying next. I'll keep you posted...I''m pretty sure I'm going in the right direction...the cars were pretty quick, just not quick enough.
So, the '55 will be on it's way to Ohio soon.
New guy here, first post. Sorry to bump an old thread, but to eliminate bushing to axle contact, wouldn't it make more sense to press a two short bushings in from the front and back of the wheel? Have the axle ride on two 1mm bushings vs having it ride on one 5mm bushing?
Also, would it be beneficial to make one solid "floating" axle? An axle that rotates freely and independently of both the bushing wheel hubs and chassis?
Too bad we don't have a pro series this year. Things have really dropped off lately...
Thanks to 72_chevy for being willing to show his insider racing knowledge. It is hard to "up my game" without some ideas from pros like this. Even 1 tip a year is handy...