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Making a really fast car, not just a faster car.

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model40fan 12/8/14

Just finished a couple racers, I don't test, but the Intruder Barracuda rolls "very quietly" compared to the kitty...

I went with TE's instructions best i could, I polished the axles on the Cuda, but not the Kitty...

The buffing wheels with my dremel set screw into a threaded shaft, strip out instantly... So I dabbed a little water into the little vial of grit, dragged the buffing wheel through it till it discolored the edge of the wheel... Between my fingers I pressed the wheel against the axle shaft, it is soft so it forms around the axle, not wearing a flat spot on an axle...Stroke back and forth while moving around the axle constantly...

 I super rinsed the axle in my bathroom sink with hottest water I could stand, used the force of falling water to SPIN the wheels, by moving the wheel back n forth under the flow while it spins seemed to rinse the grit off the exposed axle and then the inside of the wheel... Set the axles on a heater or even your cable box to slowly dry the axles...

then I "j b riveted" the axles in using the Raab axle installation tool...

Bumping this to the top, for the new racers. most of the tips use nothing more than a dremel, sandpaper, graphite.

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2seven 4/8/15

@RedLineDerby, I am going to try this very soon, I want to cut the body post completely off and replace them with 2/56 x (whatever length needed) standoffs that I will jb quick to the body, this will allow "in therory" the body to be removed/replaced for testing. details to follow

http://www.electricalhub.com/media/catalog/category/quarterstandoff.png

 

2seven


  • wow. cant wait to see how this works. — HappyCamper
  • econo-carl screwed his cars together... think he did how-to's ? — model40fan
  • Never seen that type of part before, looks promising — redlinederby

Hey 2Seven,

Have you tried just drilling and tapping the rivet post? Seems like that would be a stronger connection.

Just my 2 cents :)

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model40fan 4/9/15

   you can J B quick the flanged tubes anywhere you want,  handy if your body and base don't match...

   

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redlinederby 4/9/15
Site manager

When I first started modding I looked at screws for re-testing too...I even tried jewelry magnets, kinda worked but gave up on all of it after a few mods. 

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model40fan 4/9/15

   Or...you can oil the inside surface of the casting...transmision fluid works well...

  pull your car's tranny dipstick, couple three drops should do the inside of the casting... torn match as a brush...

  Apply LOC-TITE - Stick n' seal [indoor] to your base's rear and both sides...away from wheels... 

  it will be tough, but apply a dab to the corresponding oiled inner skin...

  assemble the base and body...

   if needed reach through the window with a small oiled knife and press the casting dabs into the base dabs..

  fine tune the fit... let set up for 48 hrs. ... the glue will dry clear, white means wait...

  these glue lumps will form clear, "only one way", surfaces on the base... body will only fit one way...

wash the oil off both the contact surfaces ...

 paint to your taste...

drop on the base for racing or testing...

when happy, just a film of glue on the contact surfaces will do it...  HOW-TO somewhere.

I just read through this thread again...it's been a while. And, I have to add that it is important to be consistent when you build your cars...if you follow the same techniques every time, your results will be repeat-able! There's nothing worse than making a really fast car, and not knowing how you did it!

It's important to try new things...but just try one thing at a time. And example...I built very similar '57 Chevys, one with the lead flat in the bottom of the chassis pan and the other with the weight as far back as I could get it. And both of these cars were raced in the Sedan Shootout race. The results...the car with the weight all the way back could be fast at times, but it wasn't as consistent as the car with the weight in the bottom of the pan.

Test different things...don't be afraid to experiment. You'll build fast cars!


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WizardofOZ 3/3/16

Good information on this page. This is VERY helpful for the "newbie" like myself. Thanks to you all. 

Looking through this thread once again, the importance of a straight running car with true running wheels really can't be stressed enough :)

The wall-riding technique would also cause more friction than having a straight car bounce around a wobbly track.

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delosRSR 9/8/16

Hi. I know this topic is quite old but I just wanna share our findings here. 


Try bend the axles so it gives an angles to the wheels. the purpose is to make less contact with the track and wall surface


  • Wont that mess up rolling straight? — gtaman