BLR lube question...track hosts

LONE_WOLF_RACING Wednesday, 2/19/2025

First off, I would like to thank BLR for his dedication and willingness to share what he has learned. I appreciate it greatly. I see all of the builders responding but am wondering what the track host think of all of this.

Obviously, builders are going to be attempting this process and want the track hosts opinions. Thx in advance...


Discussion

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AbbyNormal 2/19/25


  

I'm a "small fish" in the track hosts category but.....I believe I have always allowed any lube in my race postings.   


  • Hey Dutch, for being new to hosting you’re very good. — alva1370
  • Hey Dutch, for being new to hosting you’re very good. — alva1370
  • Thank you very much. I'm trying...AND having fun! — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
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LobotomyScam 2/19/25

They probably think, "Great, now I'm going to get a bunch of lube on my track." haha

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dr_dodge 2/19/25

if the host prohibits it, don't do it, if not prohibited, it's fair game

they make the rules.  It's up to us to abide by them

I have experimented with oils, but due to the "dry only" rule,

all my major research has been dry based components (applied with alcohol and dried)

I am currently using a mix of "long grain graphite", fine graphite powder, and moly. sulf.

for all competition cars

(thanks BLR for the info)

dr



  • This. Exactly this. — StrayDog
  • I’m with you Doc. I briefly looked at ‘dry’ PTFE sprays but found them erratic and messy. In the end I thought it was pushing the rules a bit too far. I’m mixing various dry lubes in 99% alcohol and working to improve the ‘delivery’ process. Not thrilled about my cars running on a wet track. I don’t even want my track to be a slip-n-slide. — AbbyNormal
  • If you’re doing ny technique correctly. The silicone needs to dry and the oil should be used in such a small amount that its is undetectable and not dripping out. If it’s dripping out you just slowed your car down considerably. As far as oil getting on the track, even though it’s shouldn’t, inevitably someone will use to much and it will, it won’t harm your car and certainly won’t harm the track. The graphite harms the track far more with stains than any oil or silicone . Hope this helps — BlueLineRacing
  • Well our Dr. it’s all up to the track owner. — RaginRicky_Oregon_Outcast
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SpyDude 2/19/25

All the cars I have sent up until recently (when I came back to racing after a hiatus) were lubed with dry Teflon and graphite lube. Only my very most recent cars have been wet.

For me, as long as your not dripping wet, which I haven't had happen in the few races we have hosted, I'm good with what ever you builders want to use. If I see an issue starting on my track, I will give feedback. But from what it sounds like, a little goes a long way. Sometimes I forget to swap the lube option out in the rules, so if you send one to our track, know I'm good with it. Thank you all for wanting to race at our facility and we hope to continue to make the racing as good as possible. 

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AbbyNormal 2/19/25

Well, the way I look at it is if the host says dry lube only I'll be racing dry. If the host says wet or dry lube, I'll be racing dry. If the host says they don't care do whatever I'll be racing dry.

Now moving on to build a fast gasser for Tiny Tracks - then HW vs MBX for Elevation Racing - then an Indy car - then.......,


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alva1370 2/19/25

I'm still trying to make my car go straight.


Not a host personally, however, my opinion is that if it's not dripping or fouling the track, it should stand. I'd like to see the dry lube only rule and go away and replaced with something along the lines of no dripping lube. 

Pros

- liquid lube done right is quicker. 

- It is a difficult rule to police. Although I think with experience you can tell just by examining the car. 

- this is real adult racing and the outcomes do matter to most of us.

Cons

-I'd be more concerned about silicone than oil. Silicone has the potential to foul your paint jobs though. My father-in-law was a custom cabinet maker and absolutely hates the stuff. Won't have it on his property as it causes significant fish eye in his finish jobs. I have seen some fisheyes in some of my paint jobs since I started experimenting with silicone this summer. Once it's around, it's nearly impossible to get rid of. 

Also, I wonder if that's why cars at gravity throttle racing aren't drifting as well as they used to. Two theories one. They are faster than they used to be a year or two ago, Or two The drift surface may be contaminated. 


  • Dawn dish soap in an ultrasonic cleaner will do it. — SpyDude
  • That has not been my experience. I have definitely washed some silicone sprayed cars in Dawn dish soap water in an ultrasonic cleaner and they still come out with a silicone film. Perhaps repeated washings and changing out the solution may do the trick — Milestone_Racing
  • Your first sentence....thats exactly the rules I have for my upcoming No Time Kings event. Any lube but it cannot drip. If you drip, you're out. Simple as can be. — Zamak_Speed_Shop
  • silicon and Fluorocarbons (krytox) are not dissolvable with most solvents. also they are highly toxic when heated or injested — dr_dodge
  • intrigued by the track surface theory my baja was 50.8/49.2 and just slammed the wall straight on. never even tried to slide. — dr_dodge
  • Interesting thread. I tried silicone and a dap of oil, but my graphite set up was faster. I may not have let the silicone fully dry and set. About drifting, there are actually a lot of factors beyond weight placement. Wheel camber, how much you sanded the wheel (or if you did because I have seen unsanded wheels not do well). — GravityThrottleRacing
  • My weight limit in Season 3 was 70g and the cars were crashing into the drift barrier and flipping. The ideal GW is around 55g. Entry speed is perhaps the most critical. Too fast and it will overdrift, especially if it's 60g or more. Believe it or not, the condition of the sidewalls on the 90 degree RH turn before the drift will greatly influence or control the entry speed. Temperature and relative humidity are also a factor. It's too much for me to handle sometimes. I will go to bed and film the next day if test runs are not cooperating. Haha! — GravityThrottleRacing

Here on my track, Haywood Valley Raceway, I want racers to be sending in cars they feel are competetive, no matter if its stock or modified races. Any and all lube and lube processes are welcome here. If you are happy with what you are sending in, I'm happy too. 

BTW, if anyone who does not have a track wants to send in some test builds to compare their wet vs dry builds or testing out weight placement ideas, or whatever..... I'm open to that. Send me a message and we will make it happen.


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ChiefWopahoo 2/20/25
2020 Rated Rookie

While I've yet to hold any mail-in races I have hosted many in-person events over the last few years. My rule regarding lubes is simple - No Excessive Lubes - primarily to protect my tracks.

Determining excessive is a simple white paper test. Tap a car on white, blank piece of paper and if it leaves dry or wet residue it doesnt run until it's cleaned up,


  • Good simple rule. Hi, Chief, haven't seen you around in a while. — SpyDude
  • Always here lurking almost every day. Doin' OK. Working on a new dual lane "road course" track setup that will have about 40ft of track length and be completely portable on a rolling stand. Hopefully have it ready for a local diecast show in June. How about yourself? — ChiefWopahoo
  • Hanging in there, last year was pretty rough for me, but still trying to enter what races I can. Looking at building a drag strip myself soon: like yours, it's be portable. — SpyDude
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