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I've been using tap sockets for years, but I don't use a handle doing diecast cars, just roll it back n forth with fingers. You can feel when its cutting, when it isn't, and when it bottoms out.
This is a really useful guide, the photos were very helpful!
Has anyone had experience of using a pin vise/vice instead of a regular power drill? I'm considering buying one as they are fairly cheap. I had to use my dremel on my first customisation which was nerve wracking!
As odd as this may sound, if you are looking for screws that will fit almost perfectly in the posts, the tiny screws from computers will work just fine. Hard drives, fans, motherboards, power sources ..... all have these tiny little screws holding everything in. If you have a junked computer, the screws in there will last you a good long while.
some amazing drill bitswww.amazon.com/Gyros-45-11251-Carbon-Steel-Gauge/dp/B000SKT8W8I use #50 or 51 depending upon how centered I am, and how skinny the post iswill take a 2-56 (of which I have a ton of,)all mine are at least 1/2" long, and the "good head" (wide flat) ones are an inch longso I have to cut them allscrew 1-3 nuts and washers depending upon length,dremel it off long, file flatUnscrewing with the nuts cleans the threadsFor taps, chuck them in my 1/2 inch drill (in low gear/ set to reverse only,)holds it straighter than I can by hand w/ t handlespin the carback and forth as said above, no more than 1/4 turnClean often with drill bit by handBack and forth between each post, don't over heat the castbottom the hole with a long screwIf you break a drill, screw, or tap,cut the post off past the problem, but long as possiblebrass tube pushed over the stub, lots of jb quick and luckdr
2-56 is very close to 2mm which are much easier to find these days...
Metric/SAE thread chart