Graphite - what’s the worst that can happen?
I'm really new to the world of graphite.
I've watched some great online tutorials, but I'm conscious that I'm officially the world heavyweight champion of clumsiness.
Before I jump in on my fastest cars.... could I really mess them up if I get it wrong?
Discussion
Thanks guys, just a matter of rolling my sleeves up and taking the plunge then I guess
pinewoodderbygraphite.com/science-derby-dust-dry-lube/
Maybe it takes a little more than puff and hope?
Try the Boy Scout pinewood derby graphite. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby. It comes in a small blue tube, easy to use. $4 isn’t too bad, I’m still on my first tube. Hold the car sideways, make a small anthill in the middle of the wheel then tap the wheel. The worse that can happen is you make a big anthill. I do mine over a paper plate.
Using the wrong type of lubricant powder may actually bog the cars down. Learned that in sub4ra's very last video. I used white model train lube (DO NOT EVER DO THAT UNLESS YOU WANT TO DNQ/DNF) and they finished all 5th or 6th (only beating stocks/old cars that were used in prior seasons) in straight line races on his big 6-lane hot wheels track.
You can find $3-4 graphite at Hobby Lobby and it's worked wonders.
I mix my graphite with isopropyl alcohol, for ease of application and less mess.
- That certainly makes life easier. I also use a electric toothbrush gently on the wheels to get it down there good. — Bathurst_Diecast_Racing
- Ya can walk on hot coals and have ninjas fight us; but don't you get gingavitis! — G_ForceRacing
Just make sure you use fresh graphite, not the expired stuff.
- Graphite gets old? — alva1370
- It's a running joke. Someone on YouTube posted something about an expiration date on a tube of graphite--it was actually the lot number when the graphite was manufactured--and we've been laughing about it ever since. I think of of the decal creators even made expired graphite decals for one of his own cars — SpyDude
- Kind of like saying it’s earthquake weather right after an earthquake. — alva1370
- California joke — alva1370
- OH, I know .. I used to live in California. — SpyDude
- Yes, it was me... *sigh (see below) LOL — CraigsterSr
Thanks all, some great recommendations above. I'll be buying online (in the uk so we don't have hobby lobby over here) - best news for me though is that I can't mess too much up as long as I keep it simple. That was my biggest fear really
- I use an electric toothbrush, without the brush, to vibrate the graphite/isopropel mix and that helps get it right in there. Found it much easier than just shifting the wheels up and down. Good luck and may the fast be with you! — Bathurst_Diecast_Racing
Stay away from the lock and key type graphite from a hardware store. I started using some from Ace hardware. It worked great during my build and testing, but when the cars got to the track the graphite seemed to have clumped up and bogged the wheels down. (Found once the cars were returned, as well as other test cars)
XLR8 is the best graphite that combines a proprietary mixture of different sized particles as well as different graphites from all over the world. No two types are alike, and the purest grade comes from Sri Lanka. XLR8 isn't cheap, but it's worth it.
- I have some of that and others as well. It does seem to work very well. — johnson9195
- Yup, That's the ticket!!! — CraigsterSr
As you folks know graphite is used quite a bit in Pinewood Derby. However, in the pro pinewood derby leagues everyone uses oil instead as it is cleaner, easier to apply, faster and lasts longer (more runs). You might consider looking into it. They are extremly light, purpose made oils, you might find some speed with them. Here is a good option:
@bstanley72 when I clicked your link it said product not found... try this one... www.turboderby.com/product-page/turbo-oil
Only if it gets wet. Graphite is kinda hard to mess up otherwise