The Brickyard

Looking good....can't wait to follow the process!!!

Next step is will be replacing the lexan on my start gate.  Right now the material is cut for the Max Traxx finish gate width, going to modify for the 3dbotmaker finish gate width. The wooden sticks I was using to secure the track were to inconsistent and to thick to have a tournament worthy track.

Got the brick paper all glued on, going to hold off on the lexan and start gluing my popsicle sticks down to hold the track.

I like it....what's the total length of The Brickyard?

You can see the black one here $6.99 or best offer plus $6.99 shipping, but I paid $14 and change for the jump set at Toys R Us 5 years ago. The red one is BIN for $3.99 and $3.25 shipping....good luck with the build!!!!

For the transition I chopped off the ends of a loop connector and used a dremel to notch it so it can rest snug on the hinge.  Also had to use a 12" short wall track piece because the high wall would crinkle where the bend was.  Previously I had used velcro which made the track very inconsistent.

Looks good....you'll know for sure when you do some test runs, as you can audibly hear "Tail Slap" when they transition to the run out....nice work!!!

First test last night was o.k. but had to lower the ramp so it wasn't as steep because the cars were coming out of the transition wobbly.  Seam on transition kept separating so I screwed track segments down which helped but wasn't perfect.  Going to JB weld connector piece and track segments on the bottom to hopefully fix the problem.  Also I was able to order my finish gate today.

Improved starting gate, two magnets in the lower corners just enough to hold the cars in place.  Then I just used a simple pulley system to lift gate.

I would suggest having a single segment of track that spans the transition. You'll get a better curve that way. That's what I did for my first track with the hinges and it worked great.

I happened to have a 2-lane connector that I used at the bend. I then "engineered" it a bit by using a bungee cord attached to the connector on one end, then pulled it tight and hooked it on the underside of the downhill board. This kept the track down tight with very little give. Also helped keep things from moving between races.

I'm probably not describing that very well to visualize. I have a photo somewhere...I'll see if I can dig it out and post it. Wait...found it...I guess I did a full write-up on it (who knew?)

https://www.redlinederby.com/topic/keeping-the-transition-steady-v-drop-track-connector/419

It might not be entire compatible with your build as-is but you'll get the idea. Your track is very much like the one I ran for years when I started. Maybe you can take the technique and modify to help you out.

Nice thing about this type of method is that it can easily be adapted for different angles. Whereas the plastic/metal transition guides are pretty much stuck. When I had my hinged track, I had it act as 2 different tracks...one that was a more straight than downhill, and one that was almost all downhill with a short finish. Let me vary races without the need of a new track. Quite flexible, now thinking about it...probably should have stuck with it, ha! ;P

And re-reading my post about the 2-lane connector...if any of our 3D printer friends need a new idea to print (and sell), there you go. We can all probably think of a dozen more uses for that type of connector.