Need help with track build, last hope
You need more straight away/run outs between curves to bleed out the g force and allow for more stabilization between the curves as straightaways adds stability back into the run.
- Thanks for the suggestion. I ordered 2 45 degree turns from Slanman to help with that situation. I had longer straight aways but the cars would go over the tracks sidewalls when exiting the turns and the only fix that worked was to use shorter track pieces. — thediecastninja
GBU is right, More Straight's between the curves. Gives cars more distance to stablize after corner. As for running off sides when exiting corner Guardrail or even 1" foam ( Blue ) and cut one side angle to run above track curb. It took me a year and a half to be happy with my track, Was hammerd twice by cats so in rebuilding I changed a lot and added long straights for better ability to pass as well as gain speed for next corner. 1 1/2" to 2" drop for a good Grade on straights. You have a lot of room Start high with a ramp then let the inerta take over. A decent Stock car will make it down my track, A slow one will not. Dropping your exit on a curve helps with a good transition in to the straight. Hope this helps Koots
I changed it around again. I also wanted to show everyone that I am listening. This is all of my crash racers straights. Each straight is approximately 85 inches long. Just a simple 3 180° turns like I wanted in the original post. Thank you everyone for all of the advice. It really helped.
- Looks like your getting it going now.. keep up the great work.. you have it dialed in soon. — Desert_Rat_Racing
- That looks great! Seems like they run MUCH smoother now. I look forward to more updates!! — JBlotner42
Added another 2x4 for a smoother start. I need to buy a couple more 2x4s so I can add one more turn
- See if you can find the boards that are warped or "discard" boards at Lowes or Home depot, its usually half price and you can still get great wood for cheep — JBlotner42
- Home depot normally has a cull wood cart.. Our store has wood 70% off... I grab a lot for Halloween builds — Desert_Rat_Racing
- "Cull wood" thats the word I was looking for. — JBlotner42
- Going to Lowe's tomorrow and I'm going to get several 2x6s — thediecastninja
- Forget that. Go find some pallets and bust them down for free wood. — SpyDude
I don't know if this will help with the Crash Racers track, but took a pic of Sizzlers track info I had in my Sizzlers track stash. I know you can manipulate Sizzler track to somewhat guide the cars.
- cool — dr_dodge
- I have 6 Sizzlers track sets and I have never seen those clips — thediecastninja
- You can use other things like wood blocks or shims to create the same effect, those clips are more scarce than the orginal track connectors — GBURacing
Got the 2x6s I bought 4 but, I am only using 3 at the moment. Just trying to get all of it dialed in before I commit to cutting any wood for supports.
I basically just have to get my angles just right now.
What is the best way to smooth out where tracks meet each other or at the curves? If the answer is tape what kind and would it be on the top or underneath the track connectors?
The beginning is way more than you need. If you just had the orange track the way it is and leveled off the rest of straight before first turn i think it would work really well. You just coming in to hot... I've built multiple tracks and never had it start like that.
I built Jungle Falls Raceway. It's a long track, 112 feet long to be be exact. My starting point is about 8 inches tall. Then it almost levels out completely before first turn. Gravity will do most of the work so try and decrease starting angle by a bunch.
As far as getting track to stay together I succure my trurns by screwing them down into support structure and if needed use a hot glue gun or double sided tape on bottom of track for extra strength. My track is 7 feet tall at start and i have 7 levels. It works for most stock cars right out of blister pack. I will Gladly help with any questions you have. I enjoy building tracks and racing. I also enjoy being able to watch the cars in real timewithout it being a blur.. please feel free to reach out if you need help. I will help any way i can.
Jsnrchrdsn@gmail.com 
This is how I want to setup my track once I get all of the parts I ordered I will be able to drop the start section down and race RC cars.
I am getting confused though. Half the people giving me advice are saying start high and the other half say the start angle is too high. Well, I can confidently tell you the cars drivers commit suicide and jump the track if I don't have the start this high. I have tried all different weight classes and cars with varying centers of gravity and they all have the same results if the cars don't have a fast enough start. I don't expect the cars to make it all the way the way it is configured in the picture until I get the parts I ordered and even then I don't expect any Hot Wheels to make the last Fat Track turn.
This is where I am at. I still feel like I can tweak it some more before cutting any wood for supports.
- YEAH, Now we are talking! that looks great, and I bet the cars preform much smoother. — JBlotner42
- They do but they still don't make it as far as I would like. Like I said I still have some tweaking to do ???? — thediecastninja
- The ???? at the end is supposed to be a laughing emoji — thediecastninja
- I think this is looking great. My one suggestion would be replacing that first curve with a 2 lane curve. Then placing one orange track piece, even if its just an 8-10 inch length, right after the curve so that the cars keep their speed and stability leading in to the open track. — ChaseFamilyRacing
Here is a video youtube.com/shorts/Fvfmlxlh6gc?si=cKrkm0LHcbMWNVJ8 . I think this may be the best I can do for now.