Keeping axles in place for testing
One of the main reasons I don't test as much as I probably should, is because I can never figure out a good way to hold the axles in place temporarily. When I remove axles from a car that I am building, I usually just snap the tabs off that hold the axles down to the chassis. Since they aren't there anymore when I want to test, there is no good way to hold the axles down so that the wheels don't rub the fenders. I have tried modeling clay, tapes, etc. and have had no luck. What does everyone use to hold them in solid for testing? Any help is appreciated.
Discussion
that is part of why I don't test, because the bodies I use seldom fit the bases I use,
the interior/ engine will hold down the axle, but you still have to anchor the body to the base... glue, screw, rivet, tape ....
I do the best I can at every little thing when building...because I choose to J B rivet to anchor the axles, it is pretty much a one shot deal...
I suggest you pay close attention to alignment, clearances, good spinning wheels, being very careful with glue / J B quick, use a magnifying glass to check for junk on your wheels or axles, also drag a hacksaw blade in the axle grooves to deburr the slot, file or sand the surface the wheel hub rubs against on the base,
Up until the gassers series I have had a good result using this process.
For testing I use the loctite indoor adhesive to hold the axle in place. A glob on each side of the chassis area. It dries fast and you can test within an hour if you need.
If it needs fixing - you peel it away and start over.
If it worked out right - then I add some super glue in the original axle slot and cut away knibbed area. (I know many of you frown on this - since it doesnt always hold for you, but I dont have the seemingly infinite supply of FTEs others have on hand.) The loctite also keeps the super glue from wicking to the wheels. You can also cut into the super glue if needed and start over, but it is usually an effort to do so.
I usually have the original interior or body in place as well. Each will peel away from the chassis when you need to add the super glue or to start over.
(Will be interesting to see if I forgot the super glue step on the Vette, since it is also packed with weights and more loctite over both axles as well - will see when it gets back!)
Some car's prongs are closer together than others, if you are not re-using the stock axle then pre-heat the prongs with a candle,[softens them], the wide spaced ones let you slide a tiny screw driver between the prongs and pry them apart till the axle has loosened... Then after new axle prep I re-swedge [crush] the prongs down over the new axle...I use a pair of needlenose plyers that I had heated "torch" and bent the tips 90* to let them get into a negative surface and still work...You can align the axles as you crush the prongs... go k n'o go !
I try to use the interior of the car, or modeling clay...temporarily. But once I've settled on a set of axles...they get glued in place with JB Qwik. I've had better luck this way than letting them float.