Long term use update on spray lube?
I searched the archive and found where some of the site members were discussing this lube and commenting this could be 'The One.' I'm just curious if there are updated opinions from people about this lube's performance consistency over time?
Bought this at autozone
took 2 junker wheels, sprayed the crap out of the wheel, and could make fingerprint imprints on wheel flats
so, don't try this, may make it soggy in the axle where the solvent/propelent can't evaporate
Nah, guys, don't spray it directly on the wheels - of COURSE you're going to make a hell of a mess and kill performance. What I do is spray the stuff into a small glass jar with an eye dropper, then use the eye dropper to apply a drop to the outside of each wheel and where the wheel rubs against the frame. Give each wheel a spin to work the lube around, then wipe off the excess. Once it dries (and it dries fast), go back and use your graphite in the same way. Work that in with a small paintbrush so you get everything slick and shiny, and you're good to go.
- I did spray it into a small cup and applied with a dropper, let it dry and it made no difference and left a white film. I didn't try adding graphite afterwards. Question is, how do you know the teflon is actually doing anything when it could easily be the graphite by itself? — FeralPatrick
- I was using the flat of the junker wheels to see if the "solvent carrier" melted or otherwise ruined the plastic. Some solvents will also make the plastic very brittle. I always test ALL sprays (paint, too) on a sacrificial lamb, and overdo it to watch for reactions. — dr_dodge
- @Feral: Well, that’s how I lubed the 510 you flipped off the track over at JDM Mania, so I gotta be doing SOMETHING right …… ;) — SpyDude
- lol Oh man, I wasn't questioning your skills, just the process. :) I will now try again but add graphite as the 2nd step. — FeralPatrick
- I'm really impressed with the speed you're getting out of MB wheels. — FeralPatrick
- Would you be even more impressed if I told you those wheels came off a pair of the Speed Trap trailers? — SpyDude
- Dude, that's AWESOME! — FeralPatrick
Says "Dry" but isn't.
I've tried it as well and it created a fine powder film on the axles which would create some good lubrication if there was a fair amount of friction for it to work it's magic. It is more dense than graphite and the average Hot Wheels car isn't heavy enough to create the friction needed. Stick with graphite and don't forget to coat the part of the chassis that meets the wheels. You'll see a difference.
- Also filing down that ridge on the frame helps, too. — SpyDude
- Absolutely, good point! — Lily_the_Dog
Many of you keep referencing graphite. Any crowd favorite brand(s)? Any less messy than others?
- I'm using some stuff called XLR8 ultra graphite .... I think I found it at Michael's. Mainly it's just powdered graphite in a bottle with a long thin tube for tapping into precise locations. — SpyDude
- https://www.maximum-velocity.com/product/max-v-lube-dry-graphite/ — dr_dodge
- I bought that as someone recommended it, nice product! — dr_dodge
I got some teflon dry spray to experiment with. I'm going to apply some on a test car and run it on the dyno repeatedly to see if I can generate enough friction and heat to form a decent bond. I'll run tests without lube, no lube with sanded/polished axles, with graphite, with the spray and then with spray and graphite.
I may also try bacon grease. Even if it makes a mess, I'll get to eat some bacon and the car will smell good (for a while, anyway).
- And don't forget the final dusting with coffee grounds. May as well have a coffee with the bacon! — CutRock_R_Marc_D
No good. Too thick and distribution is the pits