track problems
first off, let me say the site is looking great!!!!
now to my problem. i built a 24' track last year out of 1x6 planks,,,custom start finish gate. after many, many failed attempts at getting it right, i finally got it to wear it needs (should i say needed) to be. cars were running smoothly and fast for the longest time,,,,,,,,that is until i received a big box in the mail,,,,,,the contents made the gears go crazy in my head.
i did a trade with a guy for a original 68 track set, well he threw in a ton of extra track. i immediately tore the track apart with big intentions of using the extra track to replace some of the stuff i didnt really care for. that was my first mistake,,,,,the older track has lower sides on it, and the cars would fly off immediately. i adjusted the angle of the start gate and everything,,,still nothing.
so i went back to the old system that i was using. my problem now is that i got rid of the adhesive i was using (velcro tabs) and have been trying find a alternate solution. tried brad nails,,,,small screws flush mounted,,everything. the other issue is that the track stays in the shed when not in use,,,,,,and as we all know, when it gets hot outside, the inside of a shed is alot hotter,,therefore, any way of mounting the track i used before, the track warps and bends out of shape.
i cant keep it in the house,,,,,just no room for it.
what if anything can i use to mount the track down that will not result in the same problems im having now. im at my wits end with this dilema and am at the point of junking the whole setup and walking away from it. which is really a bummer, because thats the weeks big build up is race night,,summer racces are the best under the lights
so please please redline derby racing,,,pimp my track. (sorry there was a marathon on pimp my ride on today)
seriously any ideas would be great
thanks
james
Discussion
I'm a big advocate of adhesive velcro strips. I set up a system of thin wooden strips that fit just inside the space under the track pieces(about 4 inches in length). I added adhesive velcro to join the wooden strips to the track. I attached the wooden strips to the six ft boards using brad nails. This keeps my track firmly in place and keeps the warping to a minimum. You said you used to use velcro strips to keep the track in place, but got rid of them? Was the velcro not doing the job for you?
thanks for the info guys!!!!! much appreiated. the velcro was working,,,so i may just have to go back that route. i do like your idea of the the wooden strips,,,,that may be the way to go. i hate to have to think about tossing the setup......we have been using it for a couple years now and have had lots of fun with it,,,,the kids really enjoy it.
i guess i better get on the ball,,,,,,,,,,,,wednesday is the next race night
Can you take the track sections off and keep them in the house? I know it's probably a pain but that would keep them conditioned at least. Since I got the seamless orange track I take it off and roll it up when I put my track away, then when I want to race I have velcro tabs in place to hold the track down. Just a thought.
I've tried a few things for keeping my track in place too. Like you, I have found that adhesive stuff doesn't last very long - I tried Velcro first too without any luck.
So my first solution was simply wood strips, like Mark suggested. I took 3/4" square molding and cut it down to "bail" sized and added dowel rods into the bottom for pegs. Then drilled holes in the plank. Each bail was removable when storing the track but easy to drop in at race time.
My track bails:
More images over on the Flickr set
The wood bails did pretty good job at keeping the track in place. The only downside I found to these was that sometimes if a car got squirrely it would knick a wood separator and crash. It didn't happen all too often...depends where on the track you put them too.
When I was building my own finish line, I also tried using washers to keep the track in place. This requires a little more effort and hardware, but I can say that if it's done right I think it could be one of the best and most reliable method for keeping the track in place. Basically, a 1-inch washer fits near perfectly in the slide rails under the track. So all you need is a little space (another, smaller washer) below the 1-inch washer. Then you can slide the track over the washer and it'll stay put, I mean it's solid. The thing to think about here is spacing between washers. I think if you go too far between washers you might be a little up/down in your track...but I'm not real sure. The finish line I was using with the washer turned out to not be so great - but the washers worked great!
I guess it depends how strong you want the track in place. I've read a few folks using strip magnets too, which I might try if I'm in the right mood.
Let us know what method you do find and let us know how it works! Good luck!
well i've whittled it down to some 3m double sided tape in key spots as well as velcro tabs in spots,,,,i know,,,its crude, but if it works,,im all for it
i must say that i do completely enjoy the idea of the washer setup,,,,,,if my personal crowning acheivement doesnt last throught th edya tomorrow,,,then the washer idea is going into place,,,period,,i hope you dont mind me using your idea . but at this point im up for pretty much anything,,,as barbaric as my approach is to the solution,,,im very compassionate about racing.
also i brought the track back inside the house as well,,,,yesterday was a scorcher,,,,,,i cant even begin to describe the carnage that my eyes came across when i opened the shed doors
after race night wednesday i'll give a update of the outcome,,,as tomorrow im gonna leave it sit and settle. crossing my fingers.
thanks again folks for all the helpful info.
I too am having issues with my track. I made a 4-lane but cannot for the life of my get cars to stick on the outside tracks. the middle is the only usable tracks. Cars just fly off on the outside lanes. I think i am going to have t build some barrier walls or something. I have lowered the angle to the point of it falling over and it doesnt seem t change the results.
The only thing I can find different is that my first 6ft of track is the HW plastic downhill track. I then hook the orange track to the bottom of it. I have noticed the outside lanes on te track flare out a wee bit. Not sure if its launching them out of line when they hit going so fast.
Is the downhill playset the big gray one that folds up?
If there's a Toys R Us near your town, check them for orange track singles. The TRU near my sells 16" lengths with high walls, which is what I use for most of the length. I use high wall for the drop and the straightaway, I use the low-wall flexi track, found at Walmart, for the transition because it bends better.
yes, its the big gray fold up track.
and all of my orange track is the walmart track....
I originally built a two lane track using the Redline Derby Official track instructions. I then modified it to four lanes and added another six feet so it's now 24 feet long. In order to keep the four lanes in place on the original 5 1/2 in wide board, I had to add four thin wooden spacers every few inches down the length of the track. These 5/8 wide by 4 inch long pieces of wood fit perfectly under the recess on the base of the Walmart 'short' track pieces which I've attached using adhesive velcro. I rarely have any issues with cars falling off the track.
Here's a link to some pictures of that track.
http://redlineracing.ning.com/forum/topics/four-by-24-ready-to-race
*You can see these little wooded pieces through the arrow holes in the Walmart track in these pics. I attached the adhesive velcro just behind the arrow holes so you can not see it.
I realize the above description may be a bit confusing, so I'll try to take some pics of the boards with the track taken off so you can get a visual of the wooden spacers under the track.
I too am having issues with my track. I made a 4-lane but cannot for the life of my get cars to stick on the outside tracks. the middle is the only usable tracks. Cars just fly off on the outside lanes. I think i am going to have t build some barrier walls or something. I have lowered the angle to the point of it falling over and it doesnt seem t change the results.The only thing I can find different is that my first 6ft of track is the HW plastic downhill track. I then hook the orange track to the bottom of it. I have noticed the outside lanes on te track flare out a wee bit. Not sure if its launching them out of line when they hit going so fast.
oh boy guys,,,what a difference i have now with bringing the track back inside and going back to velcro. just like the old times. worked out beautifully
slash,,,,dont fret your situation to much,,,i to was running the same setup you are. in my findings,,,there is
honestly no solution to your dilema that i can think of,,,,,its the same exact problem i had as well.
until i came across this site and got very good ideas and thoughts on building a new setup. and all told,,,i think monetary value i have spent in this whole process with the new stup is around $45. but tkae into consideration my track has been throgh multiple updates,,,therefore the cost.
these guys know whats up with track building,,and are very helpful. my first suggestion to you is to lose the fold up track,,,and build a brand new starting gate. it can be a tedious task to get it right at first, but when you get the flow down,,,,its worth the little bit of extra effort.
Okay, this is the only picture I could find of my track showing the wooden pieces I added to keep the tracks lined up. Say hello to my girlfriend Danielle : )
I did not put the adhesive velcro on the section of track shown, only at the top and the transition which was enough to keep everything together. The wooden pieces shown fit perfectly under the sections of track and have worked wonderfully so far in all of my racing. They're put in place using small brad nails.
Plastic has memory. If it gets twisted or bent for a long period of time, it
will stay that way or want to twist back up if you try to flatten it out.
Using old track can be frustrating. It has kept the basic lane width for
decades but there has been differences in the height of the sidewalls
as well as the angle of the sidewalls.
That being said, you can use 1/2" pine molding or pine strips on your
platforms and wedge the track in between the strips.