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Track Time

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Great story, welcome to the middle aged nerd club! Check out my channel sometime, Chase Family Racing on youtube. I run stock and mods down my 2 lane track and host mail in races. My track is a good one for beginners and I am always open to having cars sent to me for testing. I would film it and send them back. 

Check out Scale Racing Channel. He has a video about "how to make a 60g modified car" that was very helpful to me. 


  • Chase, Thanks for the reply and offer.. I have watched alot of your cars running in different races, You & NumbSkull are my Favorite racers.. RLO and Crazy Canuk are up there as well... — Desert_Rat_Racing

Update - I placed an order for starting gate & timer from JLH and the wait is going to kill me but it gives me time to start collecting the wood to build the base for track..

Going with a 2 lane drag race for this first build. Want to get my feet wet as I fell in love with the drag racing first... So much to read & take in..

Ill post pics when the build starts and progress pics so there will be a before, during and after build look.. Slowly purchasing cars in pairs and some in more if I like the style.. 

Off to research the drop & transistion I want to have .. My track will be a 24' from gate to timer with a 2' extention into the  padded stop box.. Im trying Not to to do sudden stops at the end of the race and seen a few good ideas I want to try out.


UPDATE- Sorry it has been awhile since I have updated whats going on with the progress of the track- Timer & Start gate arrive Tuesday 4-29. 

Well half way thru the re arrange of basement to open the wall line for the track. A lot of moving shelves and boxes. Next move will be all the work benches and start building the frames for the base to lay on.

Bought a case of track awhile back had some time this week end & started cutting out the connectors

Such clean lines.. 

Peddle Down & Dont look Back!!!


  • looking good. what did you cut them with? — dr_dodge
  • Keep us posted with updates! — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
  • @ DR D I used my table saw using an 80 tooth Ultra Fine blade slices right thru them. I did have to cut 1 at a time & upside down for best cut. — Desert_Rat_Racing

This weekends track progress... Yup made headway and got some more done.. It is starting to come together.. As long as Naders stay out of the way tonight... 

All Orange track has been cut to the same length with 80 ultra fine blade.. It took some time to cut a full case of track. But it is done... 

Middle section built.. Working on the other two sections tonight..  Each section is 8 foot long... 

End shot where both sides mount flush to the mid section to allow OSB to mate up. Picked Blue Line racing Track set up on some of this where I could see it on his intro video. Will add more supports underneath to ensure no drooping OSB.. 

Bottom view  2x 4 for leg supports will be cut tonight... In between the 2 x 4s I will add the support rails to prevent the OSB from drooping.

Put gate & timer on to see how it will fit the width is 14" plus rails... I put only 6 foot of track layed out..  had to run a couple cars down it to see how it looked...  

All benches have been moved away from the wall allowing me to paint wall white and set the sections in place once built.. 

Started up the Youtube channel so I can get test vids up, test & tunning, painting of cars..ect Will give me some eyse on the cars to see how they are running and get my aibrushing techniques back ... More updates to come this next week.... 

 


  Big Disappointment 

I finally got to the point where I started putting the drag strip into place. I laid out everything to see what trimming of carpet to do so I can place side rails 1/4 round to lock carpet into place. So in doing this I decided to get the battery pack and run a few cars... 

1. Starting gate is causing cars to jump 40% of the runs after hitting the arrow that made into the gate the cars jumped off track.

2. Timer shuts down on left lane and having to unplug the power supply multiple time is totally agravating... 

3. Starting gate shows it can go up to 26* angle, mine is at a solid 19* and cars are pushing the flap over Alot.

   So I ran a few runs when I first got the setup in to see what it was like I made a test video showing that. Then right back int the box I placed this bad boy until I had time to complete the project it was secure and safe on a table away from anything being able to harm it.

Im adding a coule photos of gate and the lay out and after work today Ill send email to maker of this gate to ship it back to be looked at and to look at buying a different brand.... 

Im not putting this out here to bash the Company just showing my issues and I will get with him and send this to get it checked out. I know the business picked up and there was a huge waiting list and things happen. I will though be looking for a new system with different drop pins. 

So on the starting gate you can see a double arrow, for what im not sure why I need to know what direction? You can only put track on one side of this gate so?? Wheels jump when they hit these and caused multiple runs ending in going off track. There for awhile I thought my orange track might have been hitting wheels throwing car off but after these real test runs last night it was the arrows. 


  • that is a real bummer. may want to check the power supply's voltage, I have had wall warts that won't hold the voltage under the load — dr_dodge
  • I can check it once I get with maker to ensure I have what they require... Thanks for the heads up Dr D — Desert_Rat_Racing
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Benjamin_37 1/30/25

I'd like to race at your track. 


  • Ben, My goal is to host races once I have gotten a few under my belt.. — Desert_Rat_Racing

Just throwing out a thought....those arrows don't seem like they could cause an off the track scenario....is there any way the start pins are coming back up before the car has fully crossed them?   Therefore lifting the rear of the car?


  • I have watched these runs and didnt notice any lifting or bouncing on the rear end. The pins so far drop and lay flat and wheels seem to be clearing that section. I have noticed the cars lift on the front end and hear wheels crossing over the arrows. I will try to get some good close up videos from both in front and behind cars in slow motion and see if I can capture this. This is why I thru this out there as more experience track owners may have ideas for me to look at... Thanks for the input.. Good place to start.. I have sent mesg to see what power supply that is needed as i went off the recommended one and then went higher as Dr Dodge suggested to figure out the timer lane issue.. maybe I have a bad power supply and I will swap it out with another one I have. — Desert_Rat_Racing
  • Too bad you can’t sand down the arrows or something, but if you’re having other problems, replace the gate. — SpyDude

I hate to go negative on product,  but from my first hand experience, replace that JLH with a Spool Heads or Slanman.   I had nothing but problems with my JLH. Had to repair it numerous times and eventually the servo fried.  The servos are not designed to run on 9 volts.  Should be 4-6 volts.  I bought a Spool Heads start gate and its been absolutely great.  But if you want an integrated timing system you will need to go with Slanman.   Spoolheads does not offer that.   I built my own timing system and tied it into the Spoolheads gate. Works great.  Good luck with the JHL.  I hope yours is better than mine was. 

Z  


  • Zamak: Funny you say your servos went out... I went down to film and try a few things maker suggested, After 4 runs it died cant lift gates at all and it just clicks.. I have been looking a spoolheads start gate and now Slanmans as well... I feel it is going to be a quick nip in the bud just boxing this up and sending it with Please do not return letter.. Maybe he can reuse it and sell it to another person who wants a fun day and not hard core racing equipment.... — Desert_Rat_Racing
  • Desert Rat: Probably your best move. Good luck my friend. — Zamak_Speed_Shop

On further review,   you may be able to keep and re-use your existing timing sytem.  Just replace the start gate.


  • I checked my voltage on my power supply tonight, it is 5 volt which is what I was told to use by maker... So power is there I did have 2 runs the left lane went out again... So I will go with all new start and finish line... and be done.. Some times it best to cut losses sooner then later... — Desert_Rat_Racing
  • Mine had a hand held wired remote that used a pair of 9 volt batteries. One for gate drop and one for reset. It used all 9 volts on the servo. But I did not have the timing system with it. — Zamak_Speed_Shop

Good thing is I can still run cars down track to test run even though I cant see the improvements.. 


  • thanks for keeping us posted — dr_dodge
  • Your post is good information/product evaluation. Sounds like JLH just doesn't work well enough to purchase it. — Dutch_Clutch_Racing

Update: Gate/Timer Issues 

I am not bashing Unit, Maker or part manufacture on this thread- In the hobby business we always had two things we told people ...1. Just because it is new does not mean it is not deffective things go bad before installed and afterwards it fails, Bring it back we replace and or repair issues. 2. Buy cheap buy twice - Harsh reality people think cheaps is better in the rc car, boat, plane, helicopter ect it is not. Cheap was our entry level into the hobby for those that wanted a weekend for the kid to play with. We offered this for those that were not getting into hobby long term. For long term we educagted them intro flights, drive ect then broke it down for them and we had package deals. Im telling this as I know the business side of things been around it and lived it.

I hope this sheds light on issues brought up by myself and others. We all have ideas and opinions and since I have been here on REDLINE Derby I have found everyone to be pretty knowledgable and share thier views honestly. I want to Thank RLD for giving a place to be and share what we have in what is the best hobby to be in..

I know that there are some top racers here that do not use a track gate/timer but have tested everything under the sun for prepping to get to where you are. My hat is off to you all... I know your input is valuable and appreciate any ideas you may have even though you do not use gates/timers. Your eyes and knowledge is valuable to us all. Now how do I get your prep secrets hahaha... Just kidding on that one.. thats the fun to find what works on your own... It pure satisfaction doing it verses being handed it..  :-) 

 Maker response to my text- The arrows shouldnt be an issue the cars cars running over & to put clear tape over them. 5 volt power supply is correct power for the unit (I did a double check on my unit all good). They asked for more input via video.pics ect. I will try my best to send them as I get it put together. I think its fair to all parties to help out.. 

Power Supply testing- I will move away from my battery power supply it meets 5 volt required. I have a 5 volt wall plug in power supply this will be a 100%  sure way to test lane timer issue im having is it the power supply or equipment issue. Fair test process of elimination. 

Cars used: Twinmill stock plastic and metal/metal, Ford Mustang metal/metal, VW Bugmetal/metal & weighted, Mini Van plastic - All cars had movement going over untaped arrow of some type. I only ran a few tests last night more to come today.

When I say car bounce, it is not a huge jump it is very little but it moves the car one way or the other in the lane, not a clean start for sure.

Taped arrow: When car rolled over the tape it didnt bounce and it rolled thru easier not hitting the sides of the gate or the track in the runs I did very few.  Car rolled thru better and seemed to be a smoother exit from gate, most definantly you do not here the bumping of the car rolling over the arrow. Hard to explain that sound, to me the car is hitting a pothole. 

Un Taped arrow: The issue Im finding, the car was bouncing or being psuhed after going over arrow into the side of gate/track meet. When it did this it catches the track and this is where the delraiment takes place. Ive cut the top of the track guide to have it out of the way. Too much cutting the car catches more and snipping just the top helped out a bit. I still saw movement which in the end not a good start. So far less issues but only a few test runs. 

Startgate/Track: I do notice the orange track is a bit narrow to the exit of gate Not much this coud be onging issue for me. So far I have placed 6 different track pieces and still see the same aligment problem. The printing is made for multi track use so specs are not 100% orange? I feel without the arrows imprinted car woud roll better out of gate giving the car a clean and better exit, thus the offset of track would matter as the taped lane is showing so far.

Ideas:

1. I can take Heat gun and heat to top corner of the track where it mates to the gate and form the edge of track to stay outside of start gate exit.  2. Replace unit all together (Im doing).  3. Buy different track to mate with new gate eliminate track width/gate differences. I need to figure out issue its me wanting to know when you dump the cash into these units you want to find out why, My fault or theirs (Builder/Maker of parts used). or thats my look on this issue. 

I was told by a few racers their cars had inconsistant times along with gate failure, electronics failure,,, Unfortunatley unit was bought in route... Better research on my part might be less heart ache in the end.. 

I appreciate any ideas, feedback that everyone shares on this post as Im working thru with the maker of this unit. I will send him info as I get it as he requested to see if they can update system thru their own testing ect. maybe. This could be a one off issue who knows but from the sound of it im not alone in some areas.. I do know the back order timeframe for me was 6-8 weeks and sometimes rushing to get orders out things happen. I get this and will try to give them a chance to work with me.  As of today overall im not a fan of this system and hope something positive comes out of this, we shall see where it goes...  

Thank you all in advance and I apoligize for a lengthy post but I think it is needed to gather input as you read what im trying or need to try... 

The section where you see the line is raised which is the bumping sound im hearing when car rolles over it. This can push car left or right and tire catching outside of the arrows.

Right lane

Left lane

Has same raised section not as bad as right side but this side you see the gate is wider then track and cars have hung up on but left side does not have the hard bumping sound.

Left side 

more of a close up of the width gate to track

Even with tape going over the arrow there was still the off set of the plate laser shoots thru so im chalking this to all the gate issues for cars pushing left or right and the jumping off track. I replaced 9 volt batteries into remote and the drop pins do not operate, equipment issue, 

Timer

Last night on the 2nd to last run I got this as a time after car ran thru just behind right lane.

Timer tonight 

I get a quick flash of the lights on left side then it goes blank  and stays blank. My 5 volt wall plug in is missing so I was not able to test with different power supply but the one I used last night was used to get some runs in and had a charge on it. Im thinking it is a wire connection issue if it flashes when power is plug in.

Im thinking this is the last post on this as I am packing the unit up to ship back and see what happens. I will send email to maker and et them see what I have and let him know it will be heading back to him for what its worth im not sure to spend any more to repair it. 


  • Unfortunately you are not the alone in these issues from what we hear on RedlineDerby. I have had fairly good luck with the Slanman DTS. There have been issues though. 1 was quality control/pinched wires and the other was user/me damaged the remote receiver/wiring. Slanman has worked with me and "made things right". One suggestion ai have for Slanman is to print a user guide to send with the timers that explains the switch positions. Many times when a new purchaser gets their DTS they come on to RedlineDerby asking about things not being right....once they understand the switches it is not a problem....but a simple printed page with the new timers would look more professional than purchasers "figuring it out" by asking the community for help. — Dutch_Clutch_Racing
  • You are not alone on the JLH KRAFTS timer issues is what I meant to say. I am recommending the SLANMAN DTS as a good product. — Dutch_Clutch_Racing

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