Question about Tracks with Curves

leonin Friday, 5/17/2013

Hello all. First time posting.

I make a track now and then with curves. It takes several days to make and calibrate so the two tracks are equal. My problem is that as I've gotten better at building, the curves I use start coming apart from the force of the cars speeding down the track. I use the segmented curves that they make these days (4 segments for a 180, 2 segments for a 90 degree turn).

Diecast Cars, Hot Wheels, Matchbox

I was wondering if the vintage, one piece tracks one can find on eBay are better. Are the side-walls tall enough to keep cars on the track? Are they more stable? I don't want to fork out the money for vintage track if it doesn't work any better.

Does anyone else make curves in their tracks and have a hard time stabilizing them? Do the old one-piece curves work better?


Discussion

View member profile
GspeedR 5/17/13

First of all,

I build road coarses with curves fairly often. I use vintage 2-lane curves most of the time, but I also use the newer style segmented curves every now & then. I've found that the best "cure" for track pieces that won't stay together is electrical tape, preferably a 'thin mil' tape that won't be obstructive when the cars roll over it. I can see in your photo that you've made an effort to secure your curves so they won't move, which is good. Any piece of track that moves when the cars run through is lost momentum. Hang out here long enough and you'll discover that we'll take all the momentum we can get.

GspeedR

View member profile
leonin 5/17/13

Thank you, GspeedR. I am obviously a newbie and less than hard-core, but the racing I've done is fun . . . until the track starts to disintegrate.

So any and all feedback is very welcome and appreciated. It looks like a great community here.

View member profile
model40fan 5/17/13

WELCOME ABOARD LEONIN,
I am a straight lines guy, but I messed with dual 180*s to return the cars...
I noticed that your track kinda hangs in some areas... the more rigid the track the more stable the turn...
I liked the hard plastic hot curves 90*s and 180*s...
the best I used was a Johnny lightning [Indy or Daytona] 500 dual 180*s set up... it's BANKED 90* to the floor...
the cars rocketed through the turn...
I have some odds and ends hot curves 90*,180* ... and a [2] pcs. dual 180* .... PM. me

View member profile
Jobe 5/17/13

The vintage one lane 180's are not bad, but cars do tend to fly off easily.
Don't mess with the two lane 180's< i've had no luck with them at all, 3 segments that never quite line up.
I dig your track set up. Might look at hard mounting the curves to plywood or something.

View member profile
model40fan 5/17/13

do you have any single lane tressles ?
the way that they are twisted into the track's connector slot makes them a good anchor for the track...
the hot curves also have anchor slots for tressles...

View member profile
GspeedR 5/17/13

Don't mess with the two lane 180's< i've had no luck with them at all, 3 segments that never quite line up.

The small center piece on the vintage 2-lane 180s was originally used for much better when they're angled & elevated. I raise my curves up 12"-16" on wedge-shaped boxes and build smooth transitioning entry/exit ramps. Even a BIG, top-heavy cars(eg: 'Thunder Roller', 'Super Van', 'Sunagon') will race through my curves with ease, if I set them up correctly.

View member profile
leonin 5/19/13

Thank you all for your collective wisdom! It sounds like I should definitely try some of the harder curves, and work harder and stabilizing. Fun times ahead!

to join the conversation or sign-up now